1.) Place the object on the turntable and position the camera so that the object is centered. A black crosshair will indicate where the center of the frame is.
Click the bottom-right corner magnifying glass to enlarge.
2.) Adjust the camera brightness so that there is little to no red showing on the object. Red is fine on the turntable markers.
3.) Below the exposure adjustment, adjust the turntable steps. The number here will determine how many times the turntable will stop during a 360 rotation. The more rotations there are, the longer the scan will take. 10-20 steps will make for a well-detailed scan.
1.) On the right-side toolbar, click the play button to “Start Scan.”
2.) The model will start to appear on the screen as it scans. Don’t worry if there are gaps or issues -- you can scan multiple times from various angles to correct any issues.
3.) When the scan is complete, click the green check mark on the bottom right corner of the screen.
4.) Using the mouse, you can move the model around. Left mouse: Rotate. Middle mouse: Pan. Scroll wheel: Zoom. The blue material is the exterior of your model, and the yellow material is the interior.
5.) To begin another scan of the same object, click the “Start Scan” button like before. The model will disappear from the screen, but no need to worry! You’ll be able to see it again after this scan finishes.
6.) Like before, click the green checkmark to finish the scan.
In the next section, you can align these two scans to create a more detailed model.
1.) If the scans do not auto-align correctly, use the align tool (right-hand toolbar, below “start scan”) to manually align them.
2.) Follow the on-screen instructions to manually align the models: Click 3 points in common locations between model A and model B. Hold shift while using the left mouse to click between common points. You can rotate and zoom in on the models to find the best points.
3.) Once the 3 points are selected, Einscan will line up the models. If you make a mistake while selecting points, you can click “align” and restart.
Scans will likely have some imperfections, which can be manually resolved using programs like Blender, Maya, ZBrush, and many others.
1.) On the right-side toolbar, click the floppy disk icon to save the scan. This will ensure that you will still have access to the raw scan when you export the model in the next step.
2.) On the right-side toolbar (above the save button) click the mesh button. It will give you two options: Watertight Model or Unwatertight Model. The Watertight Model will close all holes in the geometry, which will make it ready for 3D printing. An Unwatertight Model will save as-is and is good for editing after in a separate program.
3.) Choose the level of detail desired in the exported model. High detail will create large files with many faces, and will take a long time to export. (The software may also be more likely to crash while exporting these.) Low and medium detail models are sufficient for most models and will still provide a great amount of detail.
4.) After choosing the level of detail, you can also choose to simplify the model further. This is helpful when aiming for a certain amount of polygons. After checking the box next to “Simplification ratio” and entering a value, click apply. (You can also skip simplifying it and hit apply if you are happy with the number of polygons.)
5.) EinScan will show you your simplified model and then open a “Save As” window.
6.) Save with a distinct name so that it will stand out from the other scan files. Export as as many file types as necessary. Options are .asc(whole), .asc(separate), .stl, .ply, .obj, .p3, and .3mf. After saving the file, you can close the program.